Varathane Wood Stain - Wood stains are designed to impart a deep, rich color. When applied correctly, they also protect the wood from water damage. Unlike paint, which builds a color coat on the surface, stain will penetrate the surface when applied. The surface of wood will be partially visible and therefore requires careful preparation to minimize imperfections prior to application.

The initial application of paint or wood stain is absorbed into the substrate. Since stains contain low amounts of binder, the pigment remains near the surface, while the binder penetrates to a deeper level. On the other hand, paint has a high amount of binder, so the pigment forms a layer on the surface.

Wood stains range from very low viscosity to extremely thick. The thicker stains are designed primarily for exterior use. They penetrate better than paint, but usually do not hide surface defects as well. Exterior stains tend to be more flexible than paint and last longer. If you decide to use stain, be aware that most cannot be painted over. So once a surface has been stained, that’s most likely how it will have to stay for life.

Grout Sealing - Cleaning ceramic tile is pretty easy compared to other flooring types, but the grout is another story. Spills can easily stain unsealed grout and it can be very difficult to remove them. And stained grout will make the rest of the floor look dirty.

The best long term solution to keeping grout clean is to seal it. This will help prevent spills from being absorbed into the grout, and cleanup is much easier.

You can purchase grout sealer online or at your local home center. There are quite a few types available, so be sure to read the labels before purchase. Silicone based sealer is applied to the grout only. It provides a long life and is fairly easy to clean. There are also finisher/sealer types that are applied to the entire floor. There are different types that will enhance and highlight both the tiles and the grout, or you can get a clear finish.

Used Generators - A portable generator will run anything from a small lamp to a number of large appliances. But you must select the correct output size in order to handle the anticipated load. To determine the size generator you will need, add the wattage of the maximum number of items you will be running simultaneously. For items with start up ratings higher than their run ratings, use the higher rating to determine your power requirements.

Inductive load appliances and tools such as refrigerators, washers, and power tools require additional wattage for starting. The initial load only lasts for a few seconds, but is very important when calculating your total wattage. For example - Running a 100 watt light bulb, a 1,200 watt refrigerator with a start-up wattage of 3,000 watts, and a 400 watt TV, would require 3,500 watts.

Electric Generator Safety Tips

Portable Fire Extinguisher - There are four classes of fire extinguishers. Each one is designed for a specific type of fire. Modern fire extinguishers use a picture and labeling system to designate which types of fires they are designed for. Older units use colored geometrical shapes with letter designations.

Class A and B fire extinguishers have a numerical rating based on tests conducted by Underwriter’s Laboratories. These ratings determine the extinguishing potential for each size and type of extinguisher.

Class A Extinguishers will put out fires in ordinary combustibles such as wood and paper. The numerical rating refers to the amount of water the fire extinguisher holds and the amount of fire it is designed to extinguish.

Class B Extinguishers are used on fires involving flammable liquids like grease, gasoline, oil, etc. The numerical rating states the approximate number of square feet of a flammable liquid fire that can be extinguished.

Class C Extinguishers are for use on electrical fires. This class of fire extinguishers does not have a numerical rating. The presence of the letter “C” indicates that the extinguishing agent is non-conductive.

Antique Tin Ceiling Tile - Planning and good layout are the most important parts of a successful ceiling tile job. Once everything is laid out, the project should go smoothly. And it's also one of those tasks that adds a lot of appeal to your home.

Selecting the Tiles

Most ceiling tiles are made of fiberboard. Standard tiles measure 12" by 12", although tiles are also made in 12" by 24" and other sizes. Acoustical tiles are made from the same type of fiber with an additional manufacturing process to help absorb sound in a room. A well designed acoustical tile absorbs up to 70 percent of excess noise.

Ask the supplier to help estimate the materials you need for installation. Most manufacturers provide charts to determine the number of tiles, the amount of furring, and the gallons of adhesive needed (if adhesive is used) based on the room size. Tiles are typically packed as follows: 12" by 12" ceiling tiles in cartons of 40, 12" by 24" are packed 20 to a carton.

Ceiling Tile Installation Methods

The most common methods of ceiling tile application are adhesives, stapled or nailed to wood furring strips, or a metal grid suspended from the overhead floor joists. For ceilings made of plaster, sheetrock, or other materials that provides a smooth, continuous backing, use adhesives to apply the ceiling tiles. If the ceiling has cracked plaster or other defects, apply furring strips and nail or staple the tiles to the furring strips.

Basic Rules

• All cut tiles should be used for the edges of the room where the ceiling meets the walls.

• Cut tiles at opposite ends of the room should be the same size.

• If at all possible, cut tiles should not be less than half a tile wide.

Determine the Size of Border Tiles

Measure the distance from wall to wall on the longer side of the room. If the length measures exact feet, you will not need to cut border tiles for that direction. If the distance does not come out in exact feet, add 12 to the number of inches remaining and divide by two. This gives you the width of your border tiles. For example, if the room is 10′ 6" long, add 12 to 6 (18) and divide 18 by 2. The result of 9" is the width of the border tiles for each end of the run. Do the same thing for the shorter side of the room. Confused? Here is the result of the calculations:

• 10′ 6" = 126 total inches of the run (10′ x 12" to the foot = 120") + 6" = 126"

• 6" + 12" = 18" (to make sure each end tile is at least 1/2 tile wide)

• 18" / 2 = 9"

• 9" on start of run + 9" on end of run = 18", so 126" (total length of the run) - 18" = 108"

• 108" / 12" (size of standard ceiling tile) = 9 tiles in middle of the run

• 9 tiles x 12" = 108" + 9" start of run + 9" end of run = 126"

• 126" / 12" = 10′ 6"
  

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Modern House Plan - So you have decided to build your own home. Although it can be very rewarding, you must be ready - financially and emotionally - to deal with the myriad or problems that will occur. And if you are going to actually do the work yourself instead of acting as general contractor, you must have time, determination, and tons of patience.

Just dealing with local building inspectors can be maddening. Answer this question; If a building inspector is actually good enough to build a home, then why doesn't he/she do that for a living instead of inspecting them? There is a far greater profit potential to building verses inspecting. So you will be up against ridiculous and unnecessary change requests from inspectors that know less about the project than you. In some cases, a lot less.

I personally witnessed one inspector that demanded all screws be removed from a new deck and replaced with nails. Now really, how much sense does that make, especially when every other deck in the area was built with screws and passed final inspection. Unreal. If you can't handle this type of lunar logic, then find someone that can.

Don't count on anybody to do their job right. Just because an architect has a nice office and a good reputation doesn't mean the drawings will be done properly. The contractor that comes highly recommended might end up ripping you off with shoddy work. You absolutely must stay on top of the entire home building project to prevent losing money or getting a house that you hate. It's amazing how many contractors can't even read a simple set of blueprints. And don't let them talk you into changing something unless you really want the change. In some cases, the contractor is simply trying to swap cheaper materials to increase the profit margin.

Get a firm estimate, put everything in a contract, and hold everybody to it. Don't allow excessive monetary draws. While it's customary to have an initial draw, make sure it's for actual building expenses and not some kind of "fee" to get work started. Every dime should go towards actually building the house. While material costs vary, and there is usually a clause in the contract that allows for this, don't fall for the "I'm not making any money on this project" scam three quarters of the way through. Unless you have made changes to the original plan that increase the cost, or supplies go up more than anticipated, don't pay any more than stated in the contract. Pay a dollar for a dollar, nothing more, nothing less. If you have been keeping the draws under control you can fire the contractor if necessary and find someone else. Remember that it's your house, your money, and you are the boss.

Snow Roof - Most people pay very little attention to the roof on their home. Since it has no moving parts to wear out, there doesn’t seem to be anything that needs attention. But that’s not true. Your roof is the first line of defense against sun, wind, rain, snow, hail, and a host of other assaults. Blocked gutters can allow water to get under the roofing shingles, damaging the underlayment.

Your roof must be inspected periodically to ensure minor problems are corrected before real damage sets in. If the pitch of your roof is low, and you are comfortable (and confident) walking around on it, you can perform your own inspection and make small repairs yourself. Otherwise, hire someone to do this for you. Be careful - a fall, even from a single story house, can be fatal.

Here are some reasons why roofs fail:

Inadequate Maintenance - Ignoring small problems is the single greatest reason for premature failure of roofing systems. Catching small damage early and making repairs is vital to longevity. Waiting until water is dripping inside the house is a great way to unnecessarily spend a lot of money. By the time you notice a leak, the damage has most likely spread well beyond the original problem area.

Weathering - All roofing materials deteriorate from exposure to weather. As stated earlier, the elements take a toll on your roof. Wind is the greatest enemy. Roofs are not generally designed to withstand hurricanes and tornados. But roofs may also be damaged by winds that gust up to 75 miles per hour. The air current can lift shingles up and break off the outer tab. This exposes the the top of the underlying shingle, and makes the roof thinner at that point.